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Hi,
Fantasy Flight’s third expansion for Cosmic Encounter , ‘Cosmic Alliance,’ is here on Tuesday and includes twenty races, and the ability to play in teams. The ever green base game will be back in stock at the same time.
Martin Wallace revisits the American civil war with ‘Test of Fire : Bull Run 1861’, in an a entry level complexity war game.
‘Rocket Jockey’ and ‘White Water’, both from Mayfair, are games I know nothing about other than the description on the publisher’s website. These have both slipped under the radar.
‘Kaispecher ‘is an expansion for Stefan Feld’s Speichersradt.
'Friedrich Anniversary edition' was released at Essen 2011 to celebrate the 300th year of the Prussian kings birthday. The new edition includes has only minor changes from the 2004 (now out of print) edition with new art work and changes to the map and cards.
‘ Village’, from Eggertspiele and in stock now, is in an interesting and novel worker placement game in that as well as placing your villagers as efficiently as possible you have to manage there departure from life as efficientlu as well – because they need to die when i an an honourable occupation to score at t end game, with a paupers grave scoring no points.
‘Santa Cruz’ is Hans Im Glucks 2012 Nuremburg medium weight euro and its continues the illustrious line of Stone Age, Finca, Titania and Pantheon. Early reports are positive so I have had the rules translated and the German edition will be arriving on Thursday, and it is available for pre-order now.
‘Thunderstone Advance’ is the new core set for the successful Thunderstone series. It will be in store on Tuesday 6th March.
I have emailed all the names drawn out of the hat for the limited number of Cave Evil, so i am sorry if you have not heard from me then you have not got a copy.
Hawaii - Tactical Tips and Strategic Surmises
I have played Greg Daigle’s wonderful game 10 times face to face and about 70 times on boardgamearena. Most of the following is mainly applicable to 2 and 3 player, because the resources and tiles don’t scale with the number of players the game provides a different experience with different numbers of players. I am going to assume you are familiar with the rules and may even have played the game once or twice.
Hawaii is a tactical game, with a little strategic direction sometimes imparted by the lie of the tiles and first round cost of tiles and gods. Over the five rounds the game follows the well worn path of shifting from purchasing income producing assets to Point scoring assets – however the random placement of the 10 areas where you purchase tiles or income tiles being expensive in the first couple of rounds can turn the game on its head – you might need to go for the foundation of victory points first and pray your income will carry you through.
Points come in five ways.
a) From the five end round scorings.
b) From Kahunas at the end of the game (45 Points max)
c) From Visiting Islands
d) In game scoring from spear huts, Ku and Lono gods
e) End games bonus tiles and gods
Most beginners focus on scoring at round end and from Kahunas and a typical score in the first couple of games in 70 to 90 points. However, after a few games you should be looking to score in excess of 120 on a tough pitch and up to 160 on a good one – and I have seen a score of 197.
Opening moves
Rule number one ‘Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth’ – if a tile costs two and is going to provide you with income throughout the game grab it – and pay double for the double benefit. Each player gets a set, and declining income, each round of the two currencies (Shells and Feet). The income declines so sharply that by the fifth round you only receive three feet and five Shells – enough for one purchase and certainly not enough to get you over the increasing end round scoring threshold. So you need some supplemental income. The income available is from Shell, Feet and Fruit huts (fruit is the third currency – a wild card). One or, preferably, two double tiles from these three will set you up for the rest of the game. If you take fruit then you almost certainly need an exchange hut to be able to convert resources from one type to another
Rule number two – grab a double boat as early as you can. If a boat is going to cost 2 then it’s almost always my auto first move to buy a double. It’s almost impossible to win against a competent player without a boat – and a double boat means you can reach the last island AND you save one feet on all of your island visits. Assuming you go every round (on average I visit four islands in a game) then it has paid for itself by the end of the game and resources are so tight in this game that can make the difference between winning and losing
Why is the boat necessary? Because visiting islands scores points (the furthest scores you 9 which is huge) and you also get a ‘double’ version of a tile to place in a village. Most importantly it’s the most efficient use of the Feet currency – you can spend all your feet running around the island or you can visit an island using just feet. There will often be a round when the price of the tiles you want is prohibitive, turn order and a big boat will usually make up for that. Another beauty of boats is that it gets you back to the beach for nothing if you have walked to the top of the island. Multiple boats purchases are sometimes seen and if your income is foot heavy this can be a killer source of points – though at the expensive of letting your opponent get more cheap tiles on Hawaii. Multiple boats is quite powerful in four or five player games if you (almost) are the only person using them
So having established 2 golden rules I am now going to give you an exception. Watch out for the gods! There are two gods who may merit a first choice; especially if there are plentiful cheap income earners out there. First is Pele, if you can pay double for him at the beginning of the game then he will provide you a huge saving in the cost of feet. Moreover he grants you the ability to jump around grabbing tiles from an opponent who has tried to map an efficient walk up or down the island. I won’t normally take the single version of this god as it often does not payback the cost. The other god to consider taking early is Kanaloa – If the income producing tiles are expensive AND the boat/surfer part of the island is near the beach then a double Kanaloa god can score you mega points at game end – 4 points for each boat and surfer.
One of the best players on Boardgamearena likes to take a double spear hut in the first round, with the aim of scoring lots of in game points, especially if he can pick up two double spear huts and a Ku god. It’s very effective in four and five player games and needs to be countered in two player by denying cheap Speer huts to your opponent
Third rule
The Kanaloa god should probably be here – if Income tiles are expensive or you are at the back of the turn order and they have gone then don’t pay more for the same assets as your opponents. Think about grabbing end game scorers or enablers. Normally I would like to get these tiles later in the game or from visiting an island but if there is slim pickings then the mighty Hula girl and Irrigation are worth an early pick. The Hula girl is one of the two most ignored tiles by beginners (the other is the Surfer). But one or two of these grass skirted ladies is almost always necessary to win. To explain why I need to move on to ...
Village Construction
In your first game Kahuna points seems the most obvious way of scoring at the end game – and beginners will set out on a path of building five villages down the board – with excessive purchase of the long hut early in the game (I almost always won’t touch ‘em – and think I have paid double for one maybe once in 60 games). At the end of the game their tableau might look like five short villages of two to four tiles with a maximum score of 45 for Kahunas. However, whilst we all love to score the max for Khaunas the average number of Kahuna points scored by the winner is 30 (according to the stats on boardgamearena) . And the reason for this is that end game bonus points from the Hula girl, irrigation and god or two more than make up for not scoring one (sometimes two Kahunas)
Most of your villages need to be just long enough to score the Kahuna i.e. they must reach under your leftmost Tiki. I like to have one long Village which will score me lots for a double Hula girl (20 – 24 points is common) and 10 points from the Irrigation tile – they work very well together as the fruits score you both for Irrigation and the Hula girl.
The other point to make about village construction, which I sometimes get tempted by cheap tiles to ignore is that you need to start a send village and preferably a third as soon as possible –because if you don you might miss out on a super cheap god that appears or a second Hula girl.
Because the Hula girl is so useful I would not delay in picking one early to midgame. A lot of my opponents will wait till the end game and then it’s possible to take it from them – it might only net you four points in a short village but it can cost them a lot more.
So my template is one long village and three or four more that just scrape in under the wire. It’s not the only approach though and in a tough game with Fruits and Irrigation at the top of the board then you have to be flexible and look elsewhere.
End of round scoring
You got to be in it to win it. This holds good most of the time in two player, less so with more players. It’s pretty simple in two player if you don’t make the end of round threshold you are gifting your opponent a lot of net points. In 3 player plus if you are not going to place first or second then the resources spent gaining scraps from crossing the threshold might be better spent elsewhere – or saved till the next round.
Surfers are a great investment from round 2 onwards – they will help get you past the threshold – you won’t necessarily win the scoring but you are only giving up a few points round on round and in a tricky round they might mean you are the only person scoring. I don’t think I have ever taken a surfer on the first round unless I am playing against someone who does not know the value of boats (you buy them from the same island location). Another beginner mistake is to value the price tokens in the second and onwards turn order spaces above turn order. This is almost a golden rule – if you know you are going to make the end of round threshold then go for turn order. In a two player game you are giving up three points to go first – and most of the time that will repay itself many times. Where I might be happy to go second is in that rare position where I am going into the last round with nothing essential left to do, or (in a two player game) I know by going second it means my opponents won’t make the threshold – and even then I might want to go first if there is a tile I absolutely have to have (say a double kahuna or tiki)
Fishing – it’s a wonderful pastime but something I only use on rare occasions in Hawaii, especially in a two or three player game. Resources are precious and I don’t want to use them (and a boat) in pinching a few points at the end of the round. If I have spare capacity and for one foot can get in the scoring or win the scoring it’s a good trade off – that does not happen often though. Once in a blue moon you might grab a fish just to get you back to the beach for free. In the four and five player game fishing is much more important because the end of round scoring can be a larger percentage of total points than in the two and three player game.
Which comes on to my last point. Often you are presented with the decision on your last move ‘ I can take this crap tile for five and get in the scoring or save my resources till the next round’ – If you can save the resources and grab first spot in turn order that’s often the right way to go. Don’t feel compelled to spend all of your resources every round – especially in expensive rounds.
When to shoot for end game scoring
The beauty of this game is that there is no correct answer to this – so many ‘build engine then score Vps’ games have a narrow tipping point – as I have suggested earlier Hawaii does not. By leaving it to the last or penultimate round to grab Hula girls and irrigation and gods you are risking the caprice of the cost tiles and the ability of other players to take them before you. When I lose it’s often because I have neglected to take Tikis and been forced to pay through the nose at the end of the game. I think I have only once seen someone win without taking any Tikis – and if you have invested in Kahunas and a village that does not score you will be in peril. Tikis are almost always an instant choice if they appear on an island and I have to think long and hard if they appear cheaply on round two. In three player and upwards I‘d almost say they are the most important tiles to secure because of their scarcity and importance in enabling other end game scoring. In a four player game I’d take them on round one.
Some thoughts on tiles
Ku – Lovely in a Spear heavy strategy. Good if cheap for the foot income
Kane – Good for the income and very useful in multiplayer for the option to purchase a tiki. Happy to pay double for in first round for the income.
Lono – I am usually happy to pick this god up late in the game to fill space and for a few extra points. My wife likes to double him on the first round for up to 20 points over the game. Like Kane probably more powerful in the four or five player games with tighter scoring
Laka – The icing on the cake of a Fruit/Irrigation/Hula/Long village strategy
Exchange huts – I struggle in games where I don’t have one exchange hut, I have never paid double for one, though 2 have sometimes proved useful in the last round
Kahunas – In a two player game I try to delay taking them, there are three spots open so its quite likely they will be available and cheap late in the game. In multiplayer I take them when they are available and cheap.
Long Huts – They have more value in 3+ player games as Tikis are scarcer.
A last note on gods - be warned, don't take a marginal scoring god in the last round - it might just reveal a killer scorer for your opponent(s) to grab
Conclusion
Hawaii is a tactical game, with some strategic considerations. My approach has been fairly successful on boardgamearena – though I have been totally schooled by the designer Greg Daigle who likes a thin income strategy, and other players swear by Spear huts .If I ever go into a game with an inflexible approach then I lose. The most important consideration is efficiency and adapting to the changing game board, what I like so much about Hawaii is how every game provides a slightly different challenge depending on the initial island lay out and the changing cost of tiles. I hope this article gives you some food for thought, and If I have missed anything please do let me know. Maybe we will meet on boardgamearena.
Hawaii is a tactical game, with a little strategic direction sometimes imparted by the lie of the tiles and first round cost of tiles and gods. Over the five rounds the game follows the well worn path of shifting from purchasing income producing assets to Point scoring assets – however the random placement of the 10 areas where you purchase tiles or income tiles being expensive in the first couple of rounds can turn the game on its head – you might need to go for the foundation of victory points first and pray your income will carry you through.
Points come in five ways.
a) From the five end round scorings.
b) From Kahunas at the end of the game (45 Points max)
c) From Visiting Islands
d) In game scoring from spear huts, Ku and Lono gods
e) End games bonus tiles and gods
Most beginners focus on scoring at round end and from Kahunas and a typical score in the first couple of games in 70 to 90 points. However, after a few games you should be looking to score in excess of 120 on a tough pitch and up to 160 on a good one – and I have seen a score of 197.
Opening moves
Rule number one ‘Don’t look a gift horse in the mouth’ – if a tile costs two and is going to provide you with income throughout the game grab it – and pay double for the double benefit. Each player gets a set, and declining income, each round of the two currencies (Shells and Feet). The income declines so sharply that by the fifth round you only receive three feet and five Shells – enough for one purchase and certainly not enough to get you over the increasing end round scoring threshold. So you need some supplemental income. The income available is from Shell, Feet and Fruit huts (fruit is the third currency – a wild card). One or, preferably, two double tiles from these three will set you up for the rest of the game. If you take fruit then you almost certainly need an exchange hut to be able to convert resources from one type to another
Rule number two – grab a double boat as early as you can. If a boat is going to cost 2 then it’s almost always my auto first move to buy a double. It’s almost impossible to win against a competent player without a boat – and a double boat means you can reach the last island AND you save one feet on all of your island visits. Assuming you go every round (on average I visit four islands in a game) then it has paid for itself by the end of the game and resources are so tight in this game that can make the difference between winning and losing
Why is the boat necessary? Because visiting islands scores points (the furthest scores you 9 which is huge) and you also get a ‘double’ version of a tile to place in a village. Most importantly it’s the most efficient use of the Feet currency – you can spend all your feet running around the island or you can visit an island using just feet. There will often be a round when the price of the tiles you want is prohibitive, turn order and a big boat will usually make up for that. Another beauty of boats is that it gets you back to the beach for nothing if you have walked to the top of the island. Multiple boats purchases are sometimes seen and if your income is foot heavy this can be a killer source of points – though at the expensive of letting your opponent get more cheap tiles on Hawaii. Multiple boats is quite powerful in four or five player games if you (almost) are the only person using them
So having established 2 golden rules I am now going to give you an exception. Watch out for the gods! There are two gods who may merit a first choice; especially if there are plentiful cheap income earners out there. First is Pele, if you can pay double for him at the beginning of the game then he will provide you a huge saving in the cost of feet. Moreover he grants you the ability to jump around grabbing tiles from an opponent who has tried to map an efficient walk up or down the island. I won’t normally take the single version of this god as it often does not payback the cost. The other god to consider taking early is Kanaloa – If the income producing tiles are expensive AND the boat/surfer part of the island is near the beach then a double Kanaloa god can score you mega points at game end – 4 points for each boat and surfer.
One of the best players on Boardgamearena likes to take a double spear hut in the first round, with the aim of scoring lots of in game points, especially if he can pick up two double spear huts and a Ku god. It’s very effective in four and five player games and needs to be countered in two player by denying cheap Speer huts to your opponent
Third rule
The Kanaloa god should probably be here – if Income tiles are expensive or you are at the back of the turn order and they have gone then don’t pay more for the same assets as your opponents. Think about grabbing end game scorers or enablers. Normally I would like to get these tiles later in the game or from visiting an island but if there is slim pickings then the mighty Hula girl and Irrigation are worth an early pick. The Hula girl is one of the two most ignored tiles by beginners (the other is the Surfer). But one or two of these grass skirted ladies is almost always necessary to win. To explain why I need to move on to ...
Village Construction
In your first game Kahuna points seems the most obvious way of scoring at the end game – and beginners will set out on a path of building five villages down the board – with excessive purchase of the long hut early in the game (I almost always won’t touch ‘em – and think I have paid double for one maybe once in 60 games). At the end of the game their tableau might look like five short villages of two to four tiles with a maximum score of 45 for Kahunas. However, whilst we all love to score the max for Khaunas the average number of Kahuna points scored by the winner is 30 (according to the stats on boardgamearena) . And the reason for this is that end game bonus points from the Hula girl, irrigation and god or two more than make up for not scoring one (sometimes two Kahunas)
Most of your villages need to be just long enough to score the Kahuna i.e. they must reach under your leftmost Tiki. I like to have one long Village which will score me lots for a double Hula girl (20 – 24 points is common) and 10 points from the Irrigation tile – they work very well together as the fruits score you both for Irrigation and the Hula girl.
The other point to make about village construction, which I sometimes get tempted by cheap tiles to ignore is that you need to start a send village and preferably a third as soon as possible –because if you don you might miss out on a super cheap god that appears or a second Hula girl.
Because the Hula girl is so useful I would not delay in picking one early to midgame. A lot of my opponents will wait till the end game and then it’s possible to take it from them – it might only net you four points in a short village but it can cost them a lot more.
So my template is one long village and three or four more that just scrape in under the wire. It’s not the only approach though and in a tough game with Fruits and Irrigation at the top of the board then you have to be flexible and look elsewhere.
End of round scoring
You got to be in it to win it. This holds good most of the time in two player, less so with more players. It’s pretty simple in two player if you don’t make the end of round threshold you are gifting your opponent a lot of net points. In 3 player plus if you are not going to place first or second then the resources spent gaining scraps from crossing the threshold might be better spent elsewhere – or saved till the next round.
Surfers are a great investment from round 2 onwards – they will help get you past the threshold – you won’t necessarily win the scoring but you are only giving up a few points round on round and in a tricky round they might mean you are the only person scoring. I don’t think I have ever taken a surfer on the first round unless I am playing against someone who does not know the value of boats (you buy them from the same island location). Another beginner mistake is to value the price tokens in the second and onwards turn order spaces above turn order. This is almost a golden rule – if you know you are going to make the end of round threshold then go for turn order. In a two player game you are giving up three points to go first – and most of the time that will repay itself many times. Where I might be happy to go second is in that rare position where I am going into the last round with nothing essential left to do, or (in a two player game) I know by going second it means my opponents won’t make the threshold – and even then I might want to go first if there is a tile I absolutely have to have (say a double kahuna or tiki)
Fishing – it’s a wonderful pastime but something I only use on rare occasions in Hawaii, especially in a two or three player game. Resources are precious and I don’t want to use them (and a boat) in pinching a few points at the end of the round. If I have spare capacity and for one foot can get in the scoring or win the scoring it’s a good trade off – that does not happen often though. Once in a blue moon you might grab a fish just to get you back to the beach for free. In the four and five player game fishing is much more important because the end of round scoring can be a larger percentage of total points than in the two and three player game.
Which comes on to my last point. Often you are presented with the decision on your last move ‘ I can take this crap tile for five and get in the scoring or save my resources till the next round’ – If you can save the resources and grab first spot in turn order that’s often the right way to go. Don’t feel compelled to spend all of your resources every round – especially in expensive rounds.
When to shoot for end game scoring
The beauty of this game is that there is no correct answer to this – so many ‘build engine then score Vps’ games have a narrow tipping point – as I have suggested earlier Hawaii does not. By leaving it to the last or penultimate round to grab Hula girls and irrigation and gods you are risking the caprice of the cost tiles and the ability of other players to take them before you. When I lose it’s often because I have neglected to take Tikis and been forced to pay through the nose at the end of the game. I think I have only once seen someone win without taking any Tikis – and if you have invested in Kahunas and a village that does not score you will be in peril. Tikis are almost always an instant choice if they appear on an island and I have to think long and hard if they appear cheaply on round two. In three player and upwards I‘d almost say they are the most important tiles to secure because of their scarcity and importance in enabling other end game scoring. In a four player game I’d take them on round one.
Some thoughts on tiles
Ku – Lovely in a Spear heavy strategy. Good if cheap for the foot income
Kane – Good for the income and very useful in multiplayer for the option to purchase a tiki. Happy to pay double for in first round for the income.
Lono – I am usually happy to pick this god up late in the game to fill space and for a few extra points. My wife likes to double him on the first round for up to 20 points over the game. Like Kane probably more powerful in the four or five player games with tighter scoring
Laka – The icing on the cake of a Fruit/Irrigation/Hula/Long village strategy
Exchange huts – I struggle in games where I don’t have one exchange hut, I have never paid double for one, though 2 have sometimes proved useful in the last round
Kahunas – In a two player game I try to delay taking them, there are three spots open so its quite likely they will be available and cheap late in the game. In multiplayer I take them when they are available and cheap.
Long Huts – They have more value in 3+ player games as Tikis are scarcer.
A last note on gods - be warned, don't take a marginal scoring god in the last round - it might just reveal a killer scorer for your opponent(s) to grab
Conclusion
Hawaii is a tactical game, with some strategic considerations. My approach has been fairly successful on boardgamearena – though I have been totally schooled by the designer Greg Daigle who likes a thin income strategy, and other players swear by Spear huts .If I ever go into a game with an inflexible approach then I lose. The most important consideration is efficiency and adapting to the changing game board, what I like so much about Hawaii is how every game provides a slightly different challenge depending on the initial island lay out and the changing cost of tiles. I hope this article gives you some food for thought, and If I have missed anything please do let me know. Maybe we will meet on boardgamearena.
Stefan Feld - Euro Master
My first play of Trajan inspired a sense of De javu - at first a tremendous sense of excitement at the cleverness of the Mancala/Rondel core mechanic, a sense of frustration at trying to string together a set of actions, and lastly a little disconnect with the game - all the same feelings I have had about Macao and Die Burgen von Burgen, though with both of these it took multiple plays to get there. Feld is the master of the clever core action selection mechanic - the dice in Macao/Die Burgen and now the Mancala/Rondel. These three games also share the need to be efficient in use of actions, and each turn is best spent trying to put together two or three engine building/spoint scoring opportunities. They also share a wealth of ways to score points. They are all great designs - and all ones that I don't see myself playing very often. Why? I like my Euros to have a little bit more connection between theme and mechanics. The other problem I have is that with the myriad scoring paths and the resulting high scores it's not easy to have a sense of why I came first or last in close games. In my last game of Burgen three of us scored about 250 points with four points separating us - the post game analysis could not identify if an why one player had won and another last. The journey to that point was pleasant enough and required a lot brain power but the after taste was a bit bland.
Stuart Dagger, the editor of Counter Magazine, recently made an impassioned defence of Feld's lack of theme, saying that the game play made his games every bit as good as Martin Wallace's. However, its a connection that I can't quite make and therefore Feld's recent games are ones I am always keen to try but not ones I am going to seek repeat plays of. My favourite of his games is 'In the year of the dragon' - and I like it because the game is much tighter than recent offerings, is interactive and also there is, for me at least, a strong connection between the theme and the way the game is played. I am always intrigued by new Feld designs; and I hope that a future release might be theme lead and integrate Feld's wonderful gaming ideas into a strong story.
Stuart Dagger, the editor of Counter Magazine, recently made an impassioned defence of Feld's lack of theme, saying that the game play made his games every bit as good as Martin Wallace's. However, its a connection that I can't quite make and therefore Feld's recent games are ones I am always keen to try but not ones I am going to seek repeat plays of. My favourite of his games is 'In the year of the dragon' - and I like it because the game is much tighter than recent offerings, is interactive and also there is, for me at least, a strong connection between the theme and the way the game is played. I am always intrigued by new Feld designs; and I hope that a future release might be theme lead and integrate Feld's wonderful gaming ideas into a strong story.
New Releases 14th Februrary
Next week’s new releases include
'Tanto Cuore : Expanding the house' a standalone expansion for Tano cuore
‘Lamborghini’ – a economic team management game
‘1812 – The invasion of Canada’ – a two to five player hybrid War /Euro from Academy games
‘Dragon Rampage’, from Richard Launius (‘Defenders of the Realm’, ‘Arkham Horror’) should arrive later next week, and it’s a competitive dungeon Ccawl for 3 to 6 players
I have added Peter Schutze’s range of wargames to the shop which until now were only available to be ordered from the USA
Restocks include 'Siberia' and 'Trajan'
'Tanto Cuore : Expanding the house' a standalone expansion for Tano cuore
‘Lamborghini’ – a economic team management game
‘1812 – The invasion of Canada’ – a two to five player hybrid War /Euro from Academy games
‘Dragon Rampage’, from Richard Launius (‘Defenders of the Realm’, ‘Arkham Horror’) should arrive later next week, and it’s a competitive dungeon Ccawl for 3 to 6 players
I have added Peter Schutze’s range of wargames to the shop which until now were only available to be ordered from the USA
Restocks include 'Siberia' and 'Trajan'
New releases 7th February 2012
It’s a great story when a game gets overlooked when released to become a cult classic after it’s gone out of print. ‘Nexus Ops’ is a great example of this, with second hand copies going for hundreds of dollars on ebay. Fantasy Flight have reprinted ‘Nexus Ops’ and given it some added bling – moreover its does not require a remortgage to purchase now. For those of you not familiar with the game it’s a ferocious sci-fi battle game that is over quickly and will have asking for a second game as soon as you finished your first.
‘Cyclades: Hades’ adds four modules to ‘Cyclades’ – this another example of a game that was met with an initial muted response but seems to becoming more popular with time.
‘Giza the Great Pyramid’ is a worker placement game with players trying to impress the pharaoh by making the greatest contribution to the building of his tomb.
‘Spielbox 7’ – the last issue of the 2011 series includes the last of the Martin Wallace games specially designed for Spielbox (you need issue two to play the games as it contains the counters).
‘Strategy and Tactics 273 ‘includes Reichswehr & Freikorps a two-player (So¬viet versus German) strategic game based on the Russo-Polish war of 1920
.
If you like your games to include negotiation and blood feuds and look like a million dollars then look no further than ‘Fief’ from Asyncron games – it’s a new and somewhat streamlined version of the 2000 original.
It’s been a long time out of print but the stupendously silly ‘Hamsterolle’ is back in an all new edition – the only boardgame I know that will get envious glances from the family pet rodents.
Restocks arriving on Tuesday
‘Kingsburg’, ‘Escape from the Aliens in Outer Space’, ‘Haggis’ and ‘the Resistance’
‘Cyclades: Hades’ adds four modules to ‘Cyclades’ – this another example of a game that was met with an initial muted response but seems to becoming more popular with time.
‘Giza the Great Pyramid’ is a worker placement game with players trying to impress the pharaoh by making the greatest contribution to the building of his tomb.
‘Spielbox 7’ – the last issue of the 2011 series includes the last of the Martin Wallace games specially designed for Spielbox (you need issue two to play the games as it contains the counters).
‘Strategy and Tactics 273 ‘includes Reichswehr & Freikorps a two-player (So¬viet versus German) strategic game based on the Russo-Polish war of 1920
.
If you like your games to include negotiation and blood feuds and look like a million dollars then look no further than ‘Fief’ from Asyncron games – it’s a new and somewhat streamlined version of the 2000 original.
It’s been a long time out of print but the stupendously silly ‘Hamsterolle’ is back in an all new edition – the only boardgame I know that will get envious glances from the family pet rodents.
Restocks arriving on Tuesday
‘Kingsburg’, ‘Escape from the Aliens in Outer Space’, ‘Haggis’ and ‘the Resistance’
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